Monday, May 14, 2012

Pix May 4 - 9 (M)



Looking towards Buckingham Palace



Olympics Stadium



Water venue



Not done building things yet!



Us, in front of the stadium complex



Behind this door, they're doing rehearsals for the Opening Ceremonies



At Windsor Castle -- guards are out because the Queen was there that day...  Not that she came out to say hi or anything...






"Industrial" site near the Olympics


At Windsor Castle



Queen is home -- her flag is flying...



At Windsor.  Behind me are the Queen's apartments




Pix May 4-9 (T)



St. Paul's Cathedral



Front view of St. Paul's



From the top of St. Paul's looking towards the Thames and Southwark and the London Eye



Another view from the top



Still one more -- the Tower Bridge in the distance



At Windsor Castle -- the archers shot through these slits in the walls



Maxine.  Behind her is the last resort defensive position at Windsor Castle



Someone's front porch who lives at Windsor Castle



Even the street lamps have crowns here at Windsor Castle



The Royal Family must REALLY HATE the fact that Heathrow was built so close to their weekend home!



Maxine, where we watched the Queen go by




Bagpipe band playing in front of Buckingham Palace.  The bands were there mostly to entertain the crowds -- they didn't actually play as the Queen went by...

Pix May 10 - 12 (T)



Tapestry at Hampton Court



Action figures -- just like Williamsburg!



Maxine with a friend




Hampton Court Gardens



Food vendor on Portobello Road


Me on a side street from Portobello Road

Pix May 10-12 (M)


 Jamie Oliver's store



The kitchen at Dinner


Making ice cream from liquid nitrogen


 "Meat fruit" -- actually very good



Hampton Court Gardens



One of the kitchens at Hampton Court -- they were feeding a LOT of people each day




More of the gardens



Check closely over my head for the William & Mary logo



Hampton Court Palace



Gardens at Hampton Court Palace

Sunday May 13th -- Back to Brick Lane Market

During the day we split up.  I went (again doing a repeat best-of) to Brick Lane Market and Spitalfields.  Maxine went to a walking tour of the Rothchilds' family.  Afterwards she took her ipad, sat in Hyde Park and read, enjoying some of our first good weather.

My impressions of Brick Lane:
0.  Couldn't be certain I was headed in the right direction when I exited the tube station.  Asked an older, grizzled guy, who insisted that he walk me over to make sure he was pointing me in the right direction.  Was waiting for a bus and I didn't want him to miss it.
1. The punker who moved his leg out of the way as I walked by.  Polite English
2. Sellers would pull their table cloth up over their product and just leave their table without worrying that they would be ripped off.
3. The barber chair just set out.  Haircuts.  Not in a "barber shop"
4. The subterranean shopping area.  The support posts painted colors.  I had a soda there.  Like Gibson's sprawl.
5. Street food.  Thai, Ethiopian, Mexican, Burmese, and Sri Lankan all without moving a step.  And most of it looked very good.  And that they'd prepared batched large enough for MANY people to buy from them.
6. Mostly junk to buy.  Very little in the way of original products for sale.  Lots of used stuff.
7. Side path off of side path.  Eventually guys selling used sneakers and used bicycle tires.
8. Edgy (despite that word almost sounding trite under the circumstances).
9. Using all space.  Spreading out into other spaces.  Oozing into even other spaces.
10. Spitalfields looked too cleaned up after 2 1/2 hours at Brick Lane.  The people there pay rent on their retail space, even as simply as stands and tables.  And the floors are clean.
11. Suspicious of (everywhere in London) things being from China.  Too much product looked identical.  How do all of these people make a living.
12. Older guy in a blazer, with a wife carrying their dog.  She was wearing St. John's Knit-type clothes.
13. Everyone shopping for clothes.  But they're already dressed.  What's the point?  What are they looking for?  A style. A  different look for themselves?  To look like everyone else?  For the next thing?  To replace something that's worn out???

Afterwards, I went over to the V&A.  It was overkill/overstimulation.  Stayed there 1 1/2 hours

Churchhill Arms and dinner at Scarsdale tavern.  Fuller's beers.  Their Porter was very good.  Honey Ale good.  Bitter.  A cider -- the ciders are a sleeper/a surprise/better than expected...

Saturday May 12th -- some 'best of' revisits

Went back to Portobello Road/Notting Hill.  Much more fun when it's not raining out!  Easier to walk.  More to see.  More patience on our part.  Maxine found a scarf for 1 pound.  Looks great and an incredible price.

Had lunch in nearby Otto's pizza, which was a recommendation from a friend who'd recently gotten back from nearly a year in London.  Corn meal crust.  Interesting food ingredients.  Maxine had the fabulous idea that we not fill up on pizza which would then give us room to go to Cafe Spice for dinner!  Which we did.  The waitress remembered us.  Had, as I told her, our first and second best meals in London in their restaurant.

From Notting Hill we went over to Wallace Sewell's retail store.  They're weavers and I'd been obsessing about their scarves since I'd seen then at the British Museum gift shop (and also at the Tate Britain gift shop). And, had looked them up online.  Bought 2 scarves.  Not all that useful in LA, but when we're in NJ, or whereever...

Friday Hampton Court

Which had two principle owners (at least as far as the tour info went).  Henry the VIIIth, and William & Mary.  So, it was fun for me.

Beautiful grounds.  Really beautiful.

Took us nearly an hour with train/tube changes to get there, but it was worth it.  Only thing I wondered about is that the audio they give you (seeming to me that that's how all the larger $ tourist sites are showing they're value added) had just SO much info on it.  While I do appreciate hearing and thus being led from room to room in the palace, sometimes it just seems like too much info.

This had been on our list for a long time.  A 3-star sightseeing spot.  Lunch in the Hampton Court Privy cafe.

Then, on the way home, we stopped at Harrods food halls to pick up lunch.  When we'd come to London the first time, in 1984, we'd been there.  If nothing else, it is a sightseeing experience!  Really, it is.  Anyway, I'd had the thought back then that it would have been nice to, rather than staying in a small hotel room, be in London in a way that it would make sense to take out food from Harrods.  Finally got to do it (of course, we'd done it our first night here too).  Bought 2 different pate's -- one on sale.  Bacon and cheese bread (worth a trip back for!), a great sandwich, 4 cookies... (you know, normal dinner food).  Stopped also at the local Nicholas store for a bottle of wine.  We don't know the wines so we went for a cheaper one, 5.80 pounds, table wine from Carcassone, which is an hour from where our friend Bill lives.  We've been to Carcassone. 

Another good day with a variety of London experiences.

Thursday May 10th -- Lunch at Heston's Place

We went to lunch at a restaurant called Dinner.  The chef is Heston Blumenthal.  He's been, for years, the top chef in the world with a place called The Fat Duck in the town of Bray (3 star Michelin).  Dinner is his London restaurant and has one star.

Maxine has the program/menu.  I'll try to remember to scan it in when we get back to LA.  Good meal.  very filling.  Meant that we didn't eat for the rest of the day.

Before lunch we'd done separate things for a couple hours.  Maxine went to Jamie Oliver's store.  I went to the British Museum (I have to take it in small doses -- this was my 3rd 2 hour stretch).  There was a civil servant's strike going on so the upper floor was closed, but luckily that was the section I'd already seen.  So, no impact on my viewing.

Afterwards a shopping wander.  Saw a store that had Harris tweed blazers.  They're so thick they're close to bullet proof(!).  Saw a store specializing in umbrella's.  (Yes, there's a joke in here about British weather, but it was also interesting in that it was an old classic store).  Then walked down Oxford Street for some Olympics shopping.

After resting for the afternoon, we made our 2nd trip to Craft Beer Company.  I got a T-shirt.  Maxine got into a discussion (with free samples) with one of the bartenders.  Bought us Nucifera Porter and Kernel Brewing's Sccars IPA.  I got the next round of a repeat of 4 Elves from Dark Star, and Pleasant Plucker Cider.  Also a conversation with what I believe was the manager.  He was able to quote what he thought the hops were in one of the beers we were talking about.  I did goof up there though -- he'd offered me an unlabeled bottle of Kernel Brewing's Imperial stout and I turned it down because I was so tap beer focused.  Nice of him to offer to share the special stuff.  Dumb of me to turn him down...

Wednesday May 9th -- The Queen

Saw the Queen twice today.  About an hour apart.

Today was the ceremonial Queen's opening of Parliament.  I'd seen this on CSPAN (or some other channel) one time.  Knew there was a lot of pomp to it all.  It's something of a let's pretend event.  They pretend she's in charge and telling them what she wants her government to do.  They let her pretent she's in charge.  She recites a list of (prepared by the Prime Minister's office) things she wants the government to do.  Then the government debates it, and some things get done -- just like any other gov't.

We knew that there was going to be a big ceremonial ride from Buckingham Palace (where she lives during the week) to Parliament.  Great thing about having fast internet in the apartment is that we could get the schedule, her route, and enough other info to decide that this might be fun to do.

We'd actually planned to get there 1/2 hour or more before the event, figuring that there's be big crowds along the parade route.  So, when we left the tube station and heard marching in the distance we figured we'd goofed, and started running.  Turns out there's just a LOT of ceremony to this.  We got there in time.  Saw the crown and sceptre ride by in a Rolls Royce, then tons and tons of ceremonial guards on horses, then the Queen and Prince Philip in a carriage.  I couldn't help wondering if she felt funny that there weren't big crowds.  The police had even expected much bigger (Maxine talked to one of them).

It was odd in that while this was a very serious occasion with lots of security (regular officers with machine guns, for example), the police were willing to talk and to explain what they knew about what was going on.

After the Queen went by on her way TO Parliament, Maxine and I went separate directions.  I headed down the street towards Buckingham Palace and then back to the center.  Had a bit of an amusing time with a little Italian lady I was standing next to against the barricade.  She put up her umbrella when it started to rain and told me that she'd share it with me.  Then, a little while later decided she was tired and I'd have to hold it up for us.

After the return march TO Buckingham Palace, I stuck around and video'd a lot of the troops as they dispersed.  They were close enough that I could have grabbed one of their hats!

Lunch at home, then out in the early evening.  First for beer, then for Philosophy.

Beer at The Harp.  Was an after work stop in for a pint sort of place with a pretty good selection.  I had Sambrook's Junction, Powerhouse's Porter, and Harvey's Sussex Best Bitter.  Didn't talk to anyone -- looked like the sort of place that had quite a few regulars.

Hopped a tube over to the Philosophy lecture I'd signed up for via Meetup.  Very interesting.  Afterwards we split into groups to discuss.  I ended up talking to an East African 26 year old who was studying Philo.  Turned out he was having an exam on Rawls the next day.  Gave him my email address at the end of the discussion.

Also talked to one of the presenters.  He was a psychiatrist with the National Health Service.  He said that most mental health care in the UK was talk therapy.  In contrast, I've understood it to be that in the US it's mostly pill therapy.  Not sure which is better.  His argument was that talk was more effective at creating change, so thus more economical in the long run.

Great lecture.  And, we saw our 2nd member of Royalty (years ago we'd seen the Dutch Royal family too...)

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Tuesday, May 8th


We spent the morning doing life maintenance.  That meant in this case two things.  First, Sainsbury for some groceries.  That took more time than it should have because the bus line was having some sort of problem.  Took forever for our return bus to show up.  The first one drove by without stopping.  The second nearly didn’t stop.  We got the sense that it was some sort of work stoppage/union program.  The driver seemed angry and glaring.  We got home with groceries anyway. 

And then spent the rest of the morning planning Scotland.  Which was surprisingly necessary.  We’re a bit wary that there might not be much to do up there.  We’ve asked 3 English people (there is some sort of anti-Scottish thing…).  One asked why we were bothering to go.  The second said he’s only been there a couple times in his life.  The third goes 2+ times/year.  We’re waiting right now for an email from him with sightseeing ideas.  But, we’re ploughing ahead.  We figure this is THE chance for us to go there.  We did though, start with 9 days planned, but have reduced it to 8 and are taking a more leisurely drive back to Heathrow airport where we’ll spend one last night before a morning non-stop back to LA.

Afternoon was touring the Olympics site!  We took part in a public tour that skirted the site.  Security is such that no tourists are allowed inside at this point – the games are in less than 2 months.  Construction is still going on.  They were doing some sort of dry run today.  With our guide we walked the area around the site and took a lot of pictures.

The department store John Lewis has a 3rd floor store overlooking the Olympics site (with LOTs of things for sale…).

Took the tube back to St. Paul’s Cathedral – to me the grander of the two (versus Westminster Abbey).  We were there for evensong, which we understood to be sung liturgy, but it was really just mass with some singing by kids in the choir.  So, we left after 20 minutes.

The Olympics site is in London Transport Zone 3 – the furthest we’ve been from home…

Spent a good part of the evening in our backyard.  It’s actually a patio built over the lower floor.  But, it’s large.  It has a covered area with a table and chairs.  So, for dinner we ate soup, drank Australian wine, ate English cheeses, and had French desserts.  First time we’ve spent any time in our backyard.  Despite that, the backyard is very useful to us because it means that all the rooms in the apartment face open space and are light.

Had a great evening! 

Random thoughts from halfway through the trip


1.       We’re not carrying water bottles when we go out.  I guess hydration isn’t an issue here (OK, something of a joke – there has yet to be a day where it did not rain, at least a little.  I have not been rained on this much in my entire life.  Seriously)

2.       I haven’t found very much in the way of unique retail goods.  Things to buy.  Aside from direct souvenirs.  My theory is that (obviously) the world is becoming global.  If you’ve got a good enough retail idea to make a bunch of money in your own country selling it, then you mobilize and take it around the world.  Seems like the only things that affect this are a)isolation (e.g. language,  cultural-specific, etc.), b)affluence  (or lack), c)not caring about world markets (ex. “our culture is best and we don’t care to share it that much, e.g. the French).

3.       In this, as well as other trips, one of the quandaries is determining the difference, when seeing how people are dressed between bad taste cultural norms.

4.       Fortnum and Mason’s was very interesting the first time I came to London.  But (and maybe this is also a comment on #2 above), now it seems to be largely a souvenir store.  They even have their own branded coffee (they’re known, I think, for tea).  But we’re drinking better coffee from a local roaster.

5.       We saved a bunch of money not taking a hop on-hop off bus tour.  Ordinarily these work great.  But, we’re here long enough and trying to take busses rather than trains, that we’re seeing a good portion of this city from the second floor of a bus.

6.       Have seen a number of acts of kindness.  First one:  A “little old lady” was mumbling to herself.  A woman went up to her and asked what language she was speaking (was it mumble, or Spanish), and proceeded to help her.  Second: We were trying to find a pub and asked a 20 year old who was crossing the street with us.  He didn’t know where the pub was, but started googling it to find our for us!  Third: Saw a man in a suit bend down as he was walking, pick up a piece of garbage someone else had left, and throw it out.  Fourth: My prior “shoe is untied, sir” story.

7.       We’ve seen more Rolls Royce’s/Bentley’s in three weeks, than in our lifetime – and we live in LA!  I can spot 3-5 before I get to my first sightseeing spot of a day.

8.       We feel very competent using the tube.  It’s a bit more difficult in countries where we don’t speak the language, or speak it poorly (France).  Seems like the stages are: bewildered, adept, competent, and then, “get out of my way, I’m trying to get someplace”.

9.       We continue to think we’ve lucked into a great apartment.  There is almost NO noise from anywhere in the building (helps that there are only 3 units).  Street noise is a block away and blocked by a street full of taller buildings.  And our bus stop is 20 feet from a secret alleyway that leads to Cheval Street and our apartment.

10.   Never a need to dress up?  Packed too much, given that people mostly see me encased in jackets, scarves, and sweaters.  And, that we have a washer-dryer.

11.   Skype is great.  As is Apple’s Facetime

Monday, May 7, 2012

Monday, May 7th

... is May day, a "bank holiday" and socialist day off (at least as far as I understand it).

Someone told me last week that it was basically a holiday for civil servants and finalcial serviced employees.

BBC weather sucks as a weather forecasting service.  They predicted an entire day of clear weather.  And it was gorgeous and sunny when we headed out on the bus to Primrose Hill.  It's one of the highest natural spots in the city and from the top, we had a great view down to London.  But, it was also raining by the time it took for our bus to get us there (maybe 20 minutes).  We saw 30 or 40 dogs out with their owners.  We can't imagine either of our dogs having willingly adopted to a rain soaked lifestyle as these dogs apparently have to.  Seemed like an area with lots of smaller dogs. 

So, we decided after Primrose Hill to wander the neighborhood, looking at the types of houses that were in the area.  Came to Regents Park Road (we'd planned this) which had 2-3 blocks of shopping and restaurants.  By then the rain had fully stopped and we'd put our umbrellas away.  We found a nice little place and decided to have some breakfast (at 11:30am).  Outdoors.  Luckily, we'd picked the place with a very robust set of umbrellas covering their patio.  Luckily because, by the time we were done eating it was raining (robustly) again.  We decided to bail out on more walking around and headed for the bus stop and home.

A couple hours at home and it was time to go out again (sun shining).  We hopped the bus that was just pulling away from our stop (the bus driver was very nice to stop and re-open the doors for us!).  Went to Belgravia.  Turns out it is the embassies neighborhood, which Maxine found fascinating.  We walked north and west through Belgravia and in the general direction back towards our apartment.  Managed to find Pierre Herme again, so Maxine was able to get a few more macarons -- her dessert for dinner. 

Stopped in at Harrods and decided we really did need to give their food another chance (we'd had it the first night we were in London and weren't particularly impressed).  So, plans for later in the week to make the 5 minute walk back to pick up some dinner.

Did have dinner at home.  Salad and Cornish pasties (meat pies) -- which Maxine had picked up at Borough Market.  Then out for another session of pub research.  This one was called Euston Tap.  The bad news -- absolutely NO charm at all.  A fairly small room/building just outside the rail station.  The good news -- an EXCELLENT beer selection, and one that they change very frequently.  For our first round, Maxine had Bristol Beer Factory's Milk Stout (they changed the tap out just after we got it!).  I had Arbor Brewing's Zeus which was a dry hopped IPA.  Nice, but fairly American-style.  For our next round, Maxine had Orchard Pig's Cider.  I had Summertime Brewing's Saison du Pont.  I should mention that across the road from Euston Tap is Euston cider.  Unfortunately not open tonight (see "bank holiday"), they have 15 ciders on tap.  So, while this isn't a particularly quaint place, the tap selection is honestly world class.

Sunday May 6th = Windsor Castle and Eton

Windsor is where the Queen goes for the weekend.  A couple interesting things about it.  First, it's right (and I mean right) under the flight path for Heathrow airport.  You'd have thought the Queen would have had more say on where they were building Heathrow when they did, given that the Castle pre-dates it by about 600 years or so.

Second, it takes a different amount of time to get out there (I imagine) if you're the Queen versus the rest of us.  I picture for her, ending the work week at Buckingham Palace, smiling at people and acting regal by not moving much.  Wrapping up and heading to her our of town home, Windsor.  I figure she goes out there with a police escort, maybe they stop some traffic, or at least drive in the bus lane, and she gets there in half an hour.  As for us, we took a tube to a train to another train, and then walked 5 minutes up to the castle.  We made very good connections and it took us just over an hour.

Windsor Castle.   Big.  Imposing.  Very definately a castle.  And the interesting thing is that the Queen has her own flag (seriously) and that when she's at Windsor they fly the flag.  It was flying while we were there, but she never came to the window and smiled or anything!

From Windsor you can walk across the river, another 5 minutes, and you're in Eton where the prep school is.  Very picturesque little town (worth maybe a half hour of walking around).  It reminded me more of Williamsburg and William & Mary than any other school I've ever seen, which was nice.  Maxine checked and Eton pre-dates W&M by 250 years or so...

All in, we spent about 9 hours on our Windsor excursion.  So, we spent the evening at the apartment, which remains a very comfortable base for us.  It's an urban area and interestingly, the people in the next building were having a party in their unit, with the windows open.  It made a lot of noise and was still going on when we went to bed.  I was hoping that it wouldn't be that much of a problem for sleeping, but it was.  So, I got their attention from our back porch (now around 11:30pm) and asked them to be quieter.  They apologized and were quieter.  You wouldn't think this a big deal, but in our neighborhood in LA people have MUCH more of an entitlement attitude.  I've seen police on more than one occasion have to quiet down a party at midnight.  And, this would be a party with valets that was probably costing $100,000.  So, I was really impressed with this English guy a)not making a fuss, b)quieting down when asked, and c)apologizing...  Civilized life!

Saturday May 5th

We started the day with... grocery shopping.  Went to Sainsbury on the bus and came home with 2 backpacks and 3 bags full of groceries.  We're stocked up for most of the next week.

Lunch at home and then a semi-purposeful wanderweg.  It was sort of a treats exploration.  I had the addresses of 2 chocolate shops and a Pierre Herme's macaron shop.  We took the bus down to Chelsea (surprisingly near to the apartment).  Wandered around looking at old houses, small retail shops.  Bought some chocolates and walked some more.  It was all very pleasant.  As we got to the 2nd chocolate shop, Maxine discovered that it was next door to French Sole, a shoe store specializing in ballet-style slippers that she'd heard about.  We spent about a 1/2 hour there and she found some really nice red 'slippers'.  At one point, another couple and their teen daughter came in.  Both mother and daughter were wearing French Sole shoes (by the way, it's an English company, not French).  The mother picked up 2 more pairs and the husband tried to encourage Maxine to do the same!  But, she limited herself to one pair.  A very interesting take on ballet slippers.

Did I mention that the weather was nice and it made for a VERY pleasant walk through a nice neighborhood?

Really, finally good weather?  OK,at least for a while.  I had rained (or drizzled if you prefer me not to be dramatic about it)  EVERY (!!!!!) day in the over 2 weeks that we've been here.

Kept walking and looking at interesting stores.  Ended up near Sloane Square and hopped a bus to Pierre Herme's shop.  We could have walked.  Maxine got a 1/2 dozen macarons, which are probably her favorite sweet snack.  And his flavors are particularly intense with a clean honest flavoring, not chemically.  And, it was good for me since I finally got to go into a Pierre Herme store!  There was one 2 blocks away when we spent time in Paris in 2006 but I'd stay outside with Cassie while Maxine shopped.  So, I guess I'm also saying that being at this shop made me miss Cassie...

Early dinner (6pm) at Tom's Kitchen.  We've found meals to be largely quite expensive here.  This was nearly $100 for a burger (me) and etc.  In general, we're also not that impressed with British food on a price value standpoint.  Was the food here good -- yes.  But worth the money?  No.

Friday May 4th

I went to St. Paul's Cathedral.  *The* most interesting place to go if you've only got time or interest in seeing one church in London.  Grand.  Big.  Certainly able to fill that awe inspiring role.  Did a little shopping too.  Got a London 2012 Olympics polo shirt and a coffee pot to replace the one I'd broken at our apartment.  Looked at scarves.  Got a question answered at the Apple store about internet on iPads in the US versus Europe.

Maxine did food shopping at Borough Market, the best food market for prepared food and ingredients that we've found in London.  It's worth the 1/2 hour transit time to get over there.  She got us a variety of cheeses and meat pies and bread and coffee and other treats.  We've tended to eat one meal out and one at home each day and this was a trip to load up for that.  She also went to Westminster Abbey.

Evening we were both planning on going to a Meetup group event occuring at the Tate Britain for their Late (the museums all seem to have an evening every so often where they stay open till 9 or 10 or 11).  Maxine was in the mood to stay home and read in our apartment (and have Chinese food).  I went to the meetup.  Not particularly interesting.  The Tate Britain just isn't that interesting a museum -- just like it's sister the Tate Modern.  I say that mostly as a way to advice people that they should spend their museum time at the British Museum.  It's really the best choice.  I'll be going back for a 3rd time before we leave London.

The Meetup was something of a singles event too, which was particularly uninteresting.  We all (roughly 100 people) met at the tube stop and walked over to the museum together.  The person running things left us on our own to do what we wanted.  I spend a few minutes with "my group", then wandered off on my own because they had some abstract art that looked interesting to me.  By 7:15 I was bored with the museum.  I knew the Meetup group was meeting up at a nearby pub at 8, but I didn't want to a)wait those 45 minutes, and b)hang out with those people.

I remembered that one of the pubs I was really interested in was in the same general area.  Called home (recall that we've got UK cell phones) and Maxine looked the place up for me.  The Cask Pub and Kitchen.

Walked over, stopping at a "7-11" on the way to pick up a chicken tikka wrap to eat so that I'd have something in me before the beer.  Got there and the place was mobbed!  For the first time, I was TOO warm.  The bartenders were busy but able to spend a few minutes with me advising on beers.  I started with a black IPA, called Magic 8 Ball, from Magic ROck Brewing.  Nice beer.

Desperate for someplace to sit and enjoy the beers, I asked these 2 guys if I could share their table.  They were deep in conversation and didn't mind me.  Pulled out a magazine to read while sipping the beers.  Ended up talking to them all night!  Best pub experience of the trip.  Tom and Richard.  32 year old college friends out for beers the night before Richard's bachelor party.  They involved me in the conversation.  Talked about everything from what to do in Scotland to what weather was like in LA.  Felt like, by the end of the evening, that I'd made 2 friends.  Had a second beer, De Molen's Belgian style barleywine.  Had most of a 3rd beer because Richard surprised me by bringing me one (!) -- I'd been planning on leaving but ended up talking till the last call bell.  He made the effort to work out with the bartender what I'd been drinking so he could buy me one of those rather than what he & Tom were having.  I could go on about how it felt to be drinking in a pub, having a normal conversation with 2 people who were ostensibly my friends, but this is probably enough.  A great evening.

Thursday May 3rd

I'm trying to catch up!  It's still (real time) Monday May 7th...

Spend the morning at the British Museum.  Not nearly as crowded as last time we went, which was a rainy weekend day.  I managed to complete the 2nd third of my planned walk through the museum on this excursion.  Old stuff here.  Old stuff there...  The Rosetta stone.  The oldest man made tool ever found.  Ancient civilizations. Their gods.  The mummies again.  Old books.  Old jewelry.  Stuff from the far East.  Stuff from all over the world that the British took home from visits or ruling the world.

Maxine went to the V&A.  Met up with a friend of hers who was visiting London.

We were getting a big tired from the sightseeing, so we took it easy and went out for an Italian food dinner in Kensington.  A recommendation from a work friend of Maxine's.

Wednesday May 2nd

In brief, went over to Westminster Abbey during the middle of the day.  Worth going to but, I find out later, if you've got to pick one church to visit, St. Paul's would be a better choice (especially since tickets are nearly $24 (well, you do get an audio to listen to during the tour).

Maxine went to the Tower Bridge and did some walking around

For dinner we went to a different Indian Restaurant, Sitaaray.  Maxine had found it in a NY Times review by Mark Bittman.  Another one of the top restaurant meals we've had.

We were also there because next door was the playhouse we were going to.  To see War Horse (NOT the Spielberg movie(!) but the play that the movie is based on).  They had actual horse puppets.  Horse puppets that people could ride on (with 3 puppeteers holding the horse puppet together and moving them around the stage).  The puppetry work was phenomenal.  Two of the puppeteers were within the horse structure (you could see them -- the horse puppets didn't have fabric over them or fur, just, essential structures.  The third puppeteer controlled the head.  And it was very easy to suspend disbelief and see him as simply someone walking alongside the horse, holding the bridle near his head.  But, the puppetry work was so great that it was possible to see them as real characters in the play.

The play -- not that special.  Not bad, but it took a long time to tell any story.  At the end of it, what struck me was that clearly this was popular here in England because it was a play about a horse.  British thing I guess.

Afterwards we walked over to Porterhouse Brewing, which was nearby.  It's an Irish pub that a friend had recommended. A  large place spread over 7(?) levels of a building.  We shared a pint of their Chocolate Truffle Stout which was surprisingly good.  The Chocolate taste came through, gently.

Drinks with Sir X

In the interest of preserving privacy, we'll just talk about Sir X here.

We got to the wine tasting, hoping for good things (a survey of Italian wines), but quickly worrying that it wouldn't be.  The girl running the tasting was on her own to teach and to pour.  The 2 girls sitting to our left seemed a bit timid and we guessed not very wine-aware.  The 2 guys on the right seemed like business people and barely smiled to acknowledge us when we sat down.

But, after the 2nd glass of wine I got to talking to the one on my side of the table.  Most of the people we've met have been EXTREMELY polite and interested in helping us as tourists.  He quickly became one of those people.  Made a couple suggestions about things we might do, even taking out a pen to write them down (including nearest tube stop -- people are helpful).  He mentioned the idea of going to Parliament to see "the questions".  I was proud to report to him that we'd already done that.  And he mentioned that he'd been to Parliament recently for a cocktail event.  I asked what kind, and he just said a charity thing.  Purely out of curiosity I asked him if it had required the same sort of security that we'd gone through to get into Parliament.  He paused, then told me that actually he was a Lord.  I was surprised and though that he was kidding me.  I guess he felt that he needed to prove it, so he pulled out a card and did.  Got the conversation going in a whole new direction.

The House of Lords is like, for the U.S., the Senate.  The difference being that they are not elected -- at all.  We knew that there were either appointed (by the Prime Minister, in which case they have the title for life) or hereditary (meaning that somewhere in their past their family had a lot of land and power).  So, I asked.  And this guy, Sir X, was a hereditary Lord.  Many more questions followed.  Easy person to talk to.  And very interested in helping out with ideas so that we'd enjoy our time in London!

Aside from pulling out a card to prove it, he showed me pictures on his iPhone of him with Camilla Bowles and also him with Prince Philip.  And said that he was going to a lunch (500 people at it) with the Queen for her Jubilee next month.

His wine tasting partner was someone who worked at Fox (not saying more out of privacy).  As we all said goodnight at the end of the tasting, we got both their business cards.  I don't know if I'm doing a good job conveying how interesting this was, but if not, trust me, it was.

And, to further make it clear, I've subsequently asked 3 British people about meeting a member of the House of Lords.  Here's a summary of what I learned.

First off, there are less than 800 of them for the entire country, and only about 100 are hereditary.  Not (according to the people I talked to) someone you'd typically just meet, let alone meet at a wine tasting (I guess possibly you'd meet at a political or charity event).  I sort of got the sense that none of these people I'd asked had ever met one, let alone spent 2 hours talking to one.

Tuesday May 1st

I am so far behind on blog entries!  Writing this the following Monday, May 7th.  I guess it's a good comment on how busy we've found ourselves.

Anyway, about today (Tuesday the 1st)...  We made an expedition to another shopping market area, Camden Markets.  It's made up of perhaps a half dozen specific market areas, all very close to each other.  When we'd gone to Brewdog just after arriving, the people at the next table over were from the area.  (The ones Maxine helped out with when they had the movie question).  The girl had told us that the best market area was the one "just beyond the bridge", which is Camden Lock.  And she was right.  It was a maze of small shops including some with interesting and unique things to look at (didn't buy anything).  But, before we got there, we looked through most of the other market areas.  And over the bridge and along the canal/past the lock -- the pictures show it.  It was very picturesque in a London, been there a long time, way.  Some of the shops were very interesting, again see the picture, with objects like shoes protruding from the side of their store front.  A lot of miscellaneous souvenirs like sepia photos, T shirts and all of that (what I wonder is how do they all stay in business selling the same stuff???)

The Camden Lock market was worth visiting.  Honestly a lot of the shopping areas in London have seemed to under deliver, but this one was worth the trip.  Tons to look at.  Some interesting food stands (mostly take away).  One even had a row of dismantled motorcycle seats in a row, facing the water, for customers to sit on while they ate.  Did see another Spitalfields Hospital store (this was our third).  Initially I was interested since the clothing seemed to be somewhere between edgy street clothing and polished up for regular consumers.  Reminded me of Gibson's book Zero History, where one of the characters chased down clothing trends -- this place seemed like one of those where it was making the transition.  Also Gibson related, we passed the Holiday Inn Camden Lock, which was mentioned in the book!  So, since he's the only author I've ever been a fanboy about, that added to the experience...

Decided to have a pub lunch in the area before heading for home.  Went to a place called the Lock Tavern and, along with lunch, we shared a 1/2 pint of strawberry beer from a brewery called Fruli.  It was surprisingly good.  Most fruit beers are too astringent and don't carry the fruit flavor well enough.  Or they just hint at the fruit.  This one though, a wheat ale, was like a strawberry soda.  Not something to drink often or a lot of, but good for a summer day.

Walking home from the Lock Tavern Maxine made the point that the tube stop was quite near to Brewdog.  Got me interested!  She was able to find it without consulting a map (unnerves me when we're travelling because usually that's the only time where my sense of direction is usually better).  Went inside.  The bartender remembered us when we reminded him.  Recall that last time we were able to taste Tactical Nuclear Penguin, but that Sink the Bismark was unavailable.  This time it was!  So, we split a shot of it.  It's an 82 proof beer.  A quadruple IPA.  I thought it was great.  Also had a Tokyo which is a 36.4 proof beer.  Also great beer.  An Imperial Stout.

Went home and took a nap before heading out to a wine tasting for the evening.  This one is worth it's own blog entry...

Saturday, May 5, 2012

On more thing from Monday

We went to Cafe Spice for dinner.  Really really good Indian food.  In the neighborhood by the Tower of London.  The food was fairly different from what I've had in LA.  Here the spices and flavors were all distinct.  Each of the dishes was different.  A great dinner experience.

Pictures Apr 29 - May 3 (T)

On Jermyn Street -- nice men's clothing
Which came first, the street or the cigarette?


Piccadilly Square
Shops in Camden Market area

Maxine waving from a bridge at Camden Lock

Maxine on the streets in Camden

Me, at BrewDog

Big Ben -- I picked this picture to post because it shows the general gloom in weather...

In the courtyard at Westminster Abbey -- they're getting ready for the Queen's Jubilee in June, 2012