Saturday, June 9, 2012

Saturday May 19th -- London to Edinburgh

Edinburra, or so they say.  I've decided just to slur it.  And to add a Z when I say Glasgow (after the "s").  We wake up and get things together for our 11am train, 4 1/2 hours to Edinburgh.  We're surprised at 9 when the cleaning lady arrives.  She was working off old info, that we were leaving early that day to fly back to the US.  But, we'd never told our rental agent Emily that we'd added 10 more days to the trip.  Things sort out and we walk down the street to Pret a Manger to buy some sandwiches for lunch and get a cab for the airport.

Our first cab ride of the trip and we're stuck!  We'd assumed the line of cabs at the end of the street were a cab line, waiting for fares.  Turns out it's where they park when they go for coffee (or tea?).  We can't find a ride to the train station and anxiously we start waving at cabs on Brompton.  Eventually we find one -- he's a great guy.  Says he's saving his money to come to Los Angeles.  We've got too much luggage, way too much, and we're stuffed into his cab filling it.  On the ride he takes a call -- sounds like he's running another business too.

Kings Cross station is big.  And, we're there early enough that they haven't yet put our train info on the screen.  They list the train and routing, but not which track to go to.  We look around.  There are more food choices, including a Pret a Manger, than we'd expected.  Lesson learned -- assume you can get something to eat at the railway (not tube, although they have some food) station.

We'd bought the tickets online and picked our seats.  We end up with a four seat/table and no one else, so we spread out.  (Lesson learned -- reserve your seats)  There's free wifi, so I try to FaceTime to New Jersey, but the connection is very slow and choppy.  But, it's still marvelous.  I'm on a train, in rural England, and I see my sister's face on the screen (my brother's ipad doesn't answer -- I tried his family too).

Scotland isn't as rugged as we'd expected.  More undeveloped and rolling green hills.  But, it's a pleasant way to get there.  As for Scotland, as the time in London had gone on, we'd gotten wary about Scotland, with people flat out questioning why we were going.  We're tempted to go to Ireland, but dissuaded by our excess luggage.  We do round down one day, changing Scotland from 9 to 8 days.

For the record, my alcohol goals for Edinburgh are scotch tasting, and I've found 2 places, Whiski Room, and Bow Bar.  I don't want to go the the disney-esque Scotch Whisky Experience (there's even a tram ride, or so I've read).

We've got a Sheraton to stay in -- thanks Priceline.  A small room, especially after the apartment.  It does have one quirk, mood lighting in 8 different colors, illuminating the bathroom.

After unpacking, up the hill to the Royal Mile (just think, a mile long shopping street).  It's fun.  Everything in plaid.  And different fabrics, wools, cashmere, poly-fleece, etc.  I'm tempted to just start buying scarves, but hold back thinking of the 2 I'd got in London (how many scarves do I need in LA, or for my once/winter trip to NJ anyway).

We head to Whiski Room for dinner and whisky (scotch) tasting.  They've done a great job in making things user friendly.  It's just a bar, but they've got maybe 100 bottles on the wall.  And, the scotches are organized into various tastings.  We start with Survey (#2), Auchentosan 12 yr lowlands (Maxine liked), Caol Ila 12 yr Islay, Dalwhinnie 15 highlands, and Glenfarcas 10 speyside (Maxine liked as well.

Friendliness of a bar, being away from home, we start talking to the father & son (the father is our age) sitting next to us.  They're German.  Marcus, the father, has taken 18 year old Tom, to Scotland for a weekend.  Nice to talk to.  We're told that the best beer in Koln (where they're from) is Paffgen, Friesenstrabe.  I'd gotten points for telling them I brew beer, and for knowing what style of glasses they serve Kolsch's in (the local beer style).  So, they take my recommendation and order a Innis & Gunn beer.  Marcus isn't a fan, but he's rigorous about German beer styles.  But, Tom likes it.  Later we realize that it's 7% beer, stronger than he's probably used to, and that ordering 2, well...

For our second whisky flight, we get #, Highlands.  Clynelish 14 yr, Glenturret 10 yr, Edradoer 10 yr (both Tom & Maxine's favorite), and Glengaroich (Tom).  But, we're not done, so we order one last dram, the Edradoer which was aged in Sherry casks.

FYI, the portions are pretty small, at best 2 ounces, but each flight costs $20 or more...

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